I Like Wild!

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had another amazing surf this morning with Mio-san. boot camp day 2!

getting better and better after each wave. yesterday i was helping her a lot getting into waves, today, Mio-san was doing it on her own.

and also learning how to go backside.

when Mio-san told me she wanted to eat pizza, i was so happy! i wanted to eat pizza too!

had an amazing lunch at Pieology!

Mio-san’s customs pizza.

my custom pizza. can you believe i ate this all? and after we ate, we were going to go diving so i asked “do you want calm easy dive? or do you want wild dive?” she said “i like wild!” so wild we went!

if you try to free dive on your own, you will either freak out, dive only 3 meters, or break your ear drum. it’s easy, but not that easy. i taught Mio-san from the beginning just like i would teach somebody to surf for the first time. and when people listen, you will see the results. just like this.

we ended up in the wild ocean for a while. big waves, cliff jumping, sharks, mermaids, and more.

then a flower flew off the plumeria tree and landed in the ocean. perfect timing to get the perfect photo.

while free diving, i was picking up rubbish off the ocean floor. lead and ocean don’t mix. thank you Mio-san for the wonderful full day of surf and dive!

then went to the perfect Mother’s Day BBQ at my sisters house. so happy to see all the boys home, along with Kelia. this is so rare these days because everybody is usually traveling. to have us all together is a precious day indeed! gosh, i love my family!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide