had so much fun with Nakamoto-san this morning. she surfed once before but couldn’t stand up so today was her official surfing debut. and this was her first wave! pure stoke!
this girl had a glowing smile. super energetic, and super happy! Nakamoto-san is from Chatan in Okinawa so she knows some of my surfer friends. super small world.
Nakamoto-san rode some waves for so long! from the outside all the way to the wall!
i’ve only known this girl for a couple of hours and i felt like i known her for years. i think it’s the connection between Okinawa and Hawaii. i feel that way with all my friends from Okinawa.
then we went for a Mexican lunch. Enchilada and Horchatta. the best!
thank you Nakamoto-san for the wonderful morning. please enjoy your beautiful Hawaiian 2.5 month vacation and hope to see you again. Haisai!
then went to load up the coolers and meet up with my friends for the most incredible afternoon session. the waves were so good that we stayed out in the ocean till 9pm! i can’t even count how many waves i caught, but Reid’s watch said he caught 27 waves. not to mention, all perfect waves!
and yes, the Friday fireworks show didn’t let us down. good surf, good friends, good food, good beers, and good times. and last, good night.
