the waves were good all day again. free surfed this morning on the short board, the long boarded in the afternoon. just stoked to be on a board!
had an amazing time surfing with Park-san and his daughter Yuka-chan.
got some amazing photos coming soon. this is just one of the good ones. look how beautiful it was today!
left this morning and drove into the coolest rainbow.
want to thank Ujibayashi-san for the photos. i had an awesome time surfing with you!
and you have the coolest family! peace!
wow, look at my new board!!! thank you Matchi for sending me this photo of my new baby. can’t wait to try it!
i’m taking a break in mid-June so i’ve been researching where to go. one idea is to go on a free diving trip so i can have some peace in the underwater world.
another idea is to experience the deepest culture somewhere far. either way, i’m taking my surfboard this time so it’s a win win situation. haha.
