had an amazing morning with Suzuki-san. coolest guy from Niseko. worked before at The Powder Company so he knows Tomoki-san, the boys, and even Tokura-san. small world!
waves were super fun this morning. Suzuki-san usually catches 3 waves a session in Japan, but that won’t happen with me. i told him to get ready to catch 15 or more waves. haha.
Suzuki-san also did his first cutback today. i was so stoked to see him surfing so good. we ended up surfing until his arms said “no more.”
ate some hot pho for lunch and had a great talk. thank you Suzuki-san for the wonderful morning, and thank you Tomoki-san for sending this cool surfer my way.
went back out this afternoon with a surfer who’s not supposed to be here in Hawaii so no photos. waves were super fun and during our session, an eagle ray swam right under me.
so i dove down and said hello. such a cutie!
big waves coming on the south shore. be ready for some huge barrels!
