i was having a few beers with some friends in a bar when i was watching the contest online. the whole focus of the Chiba Open was on Kanoa Igarashi. media everywhere as he took to the water. then the unknown underdog Joshua Moniz gets two 8’s and beat the number 2 seed and Japan’s superhero. then the few beers turned into a wonderful Jacksan night! i was so happy so we celebrated!
gosh, the waves were so good today! surfed the King Tide with Matsui-san. i was so happy that he was training hard in Japan since the last time we surfed. and it showed as he rode the waves flawlessly.
Yamasaki-san’s first surfing experience was crazy! i took him outside to the big waves because he wanted the challenge. he ended up riding some big ones and enjoying the stoke!
seen some friends out enjoying the perfect south swell with Indonesia like conditions. Kapena @ Rockpiles Left.
check out this huge wave Matsui-san caught! and he made it! omg, i was on the side screaming!!!
i felt like i was in another world today. it was that perfect!
so perfect that you can get barreled backside on a 10′ longboard.
i still can’t believe Yamasaki-san made it to the outside over and over. and over and over he was riding huge waves!
thank you boys for the wonderful King Tide surf session. be ready tomorrow for double the big waves, and double the pleasure!
