today has to be one of the longest surfing days of my lifetime! here’s how it went.
picked up Fukushima-san early this morning. he surfed before but wanted to start back up again after 6 years out of the water. so we took it very slow.
this was his first wave. Fukushima-san learned how to surf from magazines and stuff. something hard to do so i taught him the basics all over again.
sometimes telling someone how to do something is good. and sometimes showing someone how to do something is better. in this case, it turned out to be better.
on the next wave, Fukushima surfed it perfectly!
and after that, his style became perfect! look at his feet, knees, arms, shoulders, and face. everything is absolutely perfect. maybe the magazine should use this as an example? haha.
i can’t believe Fukushima-san is 57 years old!!! omg! such a great inspiration for me!
then i went to the yacht club to eat my favorite lunch special. steamed fish only once a month.
then i jumped on Mayuki and headed out to my favorite right in the world! only 4 guys out and i was so stoked! i caught so many good waves! and on my last one, i caught it all the way in and started paddling in. what???
i forgot about Mayuki? haha. so i had to paddle all the way back out. and i was too embarrassed to tell my friends what happened. haha.
passed by bowls on the way in. onshore.
OMG! Hinako Kurokawa got 2nd at the big QS contest in Chiba! that’s amazing! i was watching her heats and she was ripping! good job girl!!!
went big wave surfing with Matsui-san this afternoon. waves were huge! i caught a 6′ set breaking from Rockpiles Left all the way across Bowls! that was the first time in my life that happened!!! in fact, i never ever seen a wave like that before. stoked to be on it. anything is possible!
Surf Your Dream!
