last year we adjusted some things in Matsui-san’s surfing and it’s looking good. this year, he learned how to surf the biggest waves. yesterday was the perfect day for that! Matsui-san in the impact zone.
surfing big waves is all about relaxing. if you can relax, you can do it. if you can’t, you can’t. simple.
and when you make it to the outside, you get rewarded with perfect waves like this!
and you can ride it all the way in with a big smile on your face.
there were only 2 other surfers out with us. the reason is because not too many people can make it to the outside. on a small day, there are 20 surfers out here. this is where men are separated from the boys.
lucky to make it over this one!
i was yelling “go!!!” on the hugest wave. Matsui-san was so brave to go, BUT, he looked down so that’s where he went. next year, this won’t happen again right Matsui-san? haha. thank you for the 2 days of Kirby Boot Camp!
i was really impressed on how much determination Matsui-san had. this man can do anything!
