i’m assuming that all surfers are burnt out from the last mega swell because the lineups are so empty. that’s great for us!
i showed Tsuchiyama-san how to ride the longest wave of his life and this was the wonderful end to his first longest wave of his life. you should have seen his facial expression. it had “stoke” written all over it.
it was smiles all afternoon long!
i also showed Tsuchiyama-san how to turn the board. and he was turning it left and right on every wave. after 3 years of going straight, it must have felt really good to ride the longest wave of your life and turn left and right.
welcome to a new surfing world Tsuchiyama-san! your life will never be the same.
came home yesterday after another long day. smelt the flowers and enjoyed the green.
i bought this plant for $12 and it provided me hundreds of sweet smelling gardenias. a great investment indeed.
look at the emerald blue color on this GT. watching it swim by is the most beautiful thing. and eating it as fresh sashimi is the most delicious thing. can’t wait!
