had another amazing day with Rikita-san and Toshimi-san. started off with some super good Ala Moana. great progress day by day and you can see it in their surfing, and also in their smiles.
Toshimi-san is so hooked on surfing. when i told her “last wave” this morning, she caught it and paddled back out for one more. haha.
Rikita-san never use to like to go left. but now that he’s got it down, lefts are super fun for him.
left, right, straight, cut back, and just keep the board moving. that’s what we practice everyday.
Toshimi-san likes the bigger waves. she doesn’t hesitate, she just goes!
awesome morning session guys!
the cool thing about having a full day is that we can go with the flow. no rush, just take things as it comes. right here, we decided to fill up ourselves with protein.
so it was off to my favorite protein spot. prime rib and snow crab!
you wouldn’t believe how big the portions are, and wouldn’t believe how cheap it is.
steak and crab is my favorite. glad Toshimi-san liked it too. after we ate lunch, we were so FULL!
but needed to wash down the protein with something sweet so it was straight to Shimizu Store.
we planned to go free diving in the afternoon but took our surfboards just in case. and good thing because we found the best right hander on the island with nobody out! the waves were absolutely perfect!
got the photos coming tomorrow but i’ll leave you with the feeling we all had this afternoon. pure stoke! and when i say “Surf Your Dream,” this is exactly what i mean. Surf Your Dream!
