yesterday part 2: afternoon session.
i still can’t believe how full we were after lunch. and not too sure if the shave ice helped or not?
Toshimi-san wanted to snorkel so we headed out to snorkel.
everybody is always so happy on Mayuki!
i pass by Bowls and there were 30 guys out. then i pass by another famous spot and there was only 1 tourist out??? what??? i ask Toshimi-san, “do you still want to snorkel? or do you want to surf? but before you answer, if you choose surfing, you will have the session of your life.” guess what she chose? yup, surfing and she was the first one out!
i’m not sure how everybody paddled on their boards being so full. Rikita-san was so full and i could tell he was suffering. but once he caught his first wave, everything was all so good.
this is by far the best right hander on the South Shore. usually packed with 30 plus guys, but not yesterday. this is what dream sessions are made of.
after all that practicing at Ala Moana, Toshimi-san was ready for anything!
Rikita-san was so stoked! it’s the happiest i’ve ever seen him surfing.
surfers fly half way around the world and spend their life savings for sessions like this. perfect waves with nobody out? yeah baby, this is Hawaii and if you are a lucky man, you will have lucky surf sessions like this all the time.
Toshimi-san laughing on the wild take off!
Rikita-san with the smooth style!
i usually let waves go by so other surfers can catch it. but if there is nobody out, i won’t let waves go to waste. i’ll ride it all the way to the end!
*not too sure if i’m going to Indonesia this month anymore. why spend so much money, fly so far, and surf with crowds?
