yesterday afternoon was so beautiful! i was sitting on my board watching wave after wave like this go by unridden. it was so nice that i didn’t even want to ride it.
and the water was really clean. so clean you can see the sea urchin trying to poke your feet.
i had a big surprise for Yumi-chan. when i picked her up, she couldn’t see the longboard she normally rides in the truck. that’s because i brought her a shortboard. i knew it was time for her to challenge herself again. this will make her stronger, and this will make her better.
and if you can ride this board and catch waves on your own, you have become a great surfer!
good girl Yumi-chan! have a safe trip back to Japan and keep on looking forward!
did you hear about the 2 Japanese tourists that got shot, cut up, and dumped into the ocean? it happened in a remote place in the Philippines that i always wanted to go to. omg, that’s pretty crazy!