i think it is the greatest thing to maximize each and every single day in your life. whether you’re at home, or traveling somewhere around the world. so when people ask me to take them surfing on the day they arrive or the day the leave, i instantly respect their values in life. why? because that’s exactly how i live mine.
Maeda-san kept on riding and riding. trying different things and improving wave by wave.
when i found out the super heavy local spots Fujii-san surfs at in Japan, i already knew he was a good surfer. if he wasn’t, he wouldn’t be surfing those spots. spots we both know are super secret.
Maeda-san riding some good long lefts too!
backside bottom turn for Fujii-san!
love taking photos like this too. just shows the moment. the moment from Japan to Ala Moana.
and the moment before riding a perfect wave.
a perfect wave like this!
thank you boys for the wonderful afternoon surf session! let’s do it again today!
