i surfed with Fujii-san yesterday and he told me he was a little jet lagged. but this morning, he was full of power and it showed in his surfing. this is an amazing bottom turn!
then he smacked the lip so hard right in front of me. power surfing!
Maeda-san rode a lot of rights today. just keeping calm and riding it from start to end.
seen the school of Omilu’s again. it’s been pretty much everyday i see them but nobody else has. probably because i’m always looking underwater.
i’d say the big one is about 15lbs. so perfect for a sashimi platter. when i get a day off, i might go out there and spear one.
Fujii-san again showing his surfing talent. nice turn!
Maeda-san started looking forward so his surfing will be moving forward very quickly.
nice style off the bottom turn.
i’ve been riding a round pin for the last 8 years and that will never change.
thank you boys for the super amazing morning session!
followed by a great hot bowl of pho. glad you guys liked it!
then a miracle happened this afternoon when i was surfing with Fujiki-san. yeah, if you think positive, positive things will happen. that’s the truth!
