Bully at Bowls

275

you want to hear a funny story? i was surfing at bowls a few days ago. a nice perfect wave was coming so i looked ahead, nobody was there so i pushed yuki-san into it on her longboard. a big local guy was on the side and paddled up to me “eeeh brah, you almost hit me.” he thought i was a japanese tourist. i looked at him and said “take it easy, not even close.” he said “brah, if you hit my surfboard, i going make you buy um. go surf somewhere else.” my heart started pumping, my hair started to stand up, and i was about to say “F@!K YOU!!!!!” but i see yuki-san paddling back out and didn’t want her to see the crazy side of me so i sat on my longboard, closed my eyes, and took 3 deep breaths of air. i opened my eyes, looked at the guy, smiled, and gave him the expression “today is your lucky day!” i was so at ease and was amazed how meditation can clear my mind. this guy was about 230 lbs, but i knew that i can hold my breath much longer than him. i was even picturing in my mind how i was going to paddle up to him, stand up on my longboard, jump and give him a bruce lee kick, then grab him and hold him under water until only one of us comes up. i’m not sure what’s going to happen the next time i surf bowls but all i have to say is “i ain’t backing down again.” if you see me taking 3 deep breaths of air, get the heck away cause once i grab you, you better have a scuba tank. haha. i’m just joking. i’m all about peace and i’m just proud of myself to be able to walk away from bully’s.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide