The Practice

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i like to practice what i preach. so after telling my Japanese friends for years that nothing beats surfing in the morning and jumping on a long flight. my flight was early in the morning so i just surfed earlier in the morning. arrive at 5:30am just in time for the sunrise. caught a few waves with my Princess and we were feeling alive!

came home, grabbed my backpack, and headed to the airport with sand still on my feet. who cares when you’re greeted with this amazing rainbow.

tried a new place down my street called Koa Pancake House. only $7 but not the greatest. i won’t go back there again anytime soon.

got to the airport not knowing if i’ll get a flight or not. it’s called “going with the flow.” and the flow always takes you to the right place. if it’s meant to be, great. if it’s not meant to be, great too.

want to thank Yumi-chan for the towel.

and want to thank Tanno-san for the treats.

ate some good food already and can’t wait to eat more!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide