Taiwan Disneyland and Lobster Festival

212

every time i come to Mori-san’s house, i feel like i’m in Disneyland! toys everywhere. and my kind of toys!

and an amazing foot massager.

went into the deep forest searching secret surf spots. our rent-a-car is brand-new and i’m sure it’s not liking this too much.

it’s so crazy how many spots there are here. reef breaks, beach breaks, point breaks, and river mouths. amazing!

brought my new board and it’s working good! so happy!

after surfing a spot with only the 3 of us, you can feel the joy in the air. everybody happy!

went to a super local restaurant for dinner. they catch everything fresh right out in front so it can’t get any better than this.

this is their backroom refrigerator.

went to pick out a few live lobsters.

yeah, this was enough for the 4 of us.

then sat down and had a fiesta. the food was so amazing!

lobster sashimi.

lobster miso soup.

lobster stir fry.

we also ate Nenue steamed the Chinese way.

then at the end of the night, i fell into a deep ditch in the pitch dark. i took a step in the dark and didn’t know i was walking into a ditch. imagine walking out of a restaurant so happy and satisfied. then falling like that when you least expect it. it was a trip but luckily i didn’t kill myself. just a few bruises and trauma but i’ll be fine. and i’ll also look better where i’m walking next time.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide