we couldn’t have come at a better time. been totally flat in Taiwan for a while so we walked right into a nice swell! already surfed 2 rounds this morning and it’s only 10am. two local surfers already told me “you’re a very lucky boy!”
i love my new board. super good in these super fun waves.
Hayato @ a secret point. surfing, laughing, and surfing.
Kimura-san got eye surgery 3 months ago and told me he had no motivation to surf or travel. after a few arguments with him, now he’s surfing and traveling. haha.
this is the best rehab in the world. surfing will fix anything and everything.
another surf session at a secret beach break. only been here for 2 days but already surfed out. look how happy us boys are, especially Kimura-san. haha.
if i come to the East side of Taiwan, this place is a must. i can eat here everyday for lunch and dinner. the best ever!
choose stuff from the refrigerator, and order stuff off the menu. all delicious.
we told Hayato to order and look what he ordered!!! omg, 6 orders of dumplings, 3 noodle soups, and more on the way. we felt like pigs after.
so we went for the best exercise in the world, surfing. score!
then went to grab a few coconuts for our Jack/Coco dessert drinks.
i’m on vacation so i told myself i’ll only spend 1 hour/day on my computer. that 1 hour is up so better get going.
thank goodness it’s cloudy because a suntan is the last thing i wanted. no need wetsuit because the water is warm. it’s absolutely perfect weather!
Surf Your Dreams!
