a typical day is getting up at 4:30am and checking the waves. Moro-San on the binoculars letting us know where the best spot will be.
and he’s always right because we’ve surfed the best spot of each day. super perfect empty waves.
Kimura-san is starting to take much better photos. practice makes perfect.
surfing this spot is super fun because there is nothing like it back home in Hawaii. just the most perfect wave you can carve on the clean faces. feels so good to do turns like this!
warm water, cool weather, and lots of waves. this is the exact kind of vacation i was looking for.
then back to the house after 2 morning rounds. Kimura-san taking a nap.
this was my relaxing spot. just loving life.
we rented a brand new car this time. but when we returned it, it wasn’t brand new anymore.
then drove around in the city. you won’t find a foreigner here. this is pretty deep Taiwan.
amazing culture. i don’t understand what those 2 balls are though?
beautiful sculptures.
local restaurants.
we sit down and have the most amazing lunch.
buy some fruits on the way back. lychee was so sweet and cheap!
then back to the house to check the waves and plan for our evening session.
more waves, more smiles.
we jump in again and nobody is around except us. Hayato loving life.
then back to the house, shower, have a beer, dinner, then deep sleeping by 10pm. this is how you get the most out of each day in your life. you only have one so why not?
