i was so happy to be out surfing at Bowls this morning when the Hokulea came by!!! i can’t believe the Hokulea sailed around the world with no GPS! that’s incredible!
history has been made and the Hawaiians are super happy and proud right now! such an amazing story.
i was on vacation until tomorrow but came home yesterday because i saw the South Swell coming. that’s why i surfed 4 hours yesterday and 4 hours today. i felt like i was surfing in Indonesia!
look how perfect the waves were! super glassy and super barreling!
i got a few nice waves this morning and afternoon.
and so did everybody else.
even the girls got good waves.
then right as i was about to end my perfect afternoon session, i had an accident. this is part of surfing. this is part of life. love it or leave it. i love it so i would never leave it.
i don’t like hospitals, i don’t like shots, i don’t like blood, and i don’t like pain. i got all of that in one visit. oh boy!
