i thought i was in heaven yesterday surfing the best waves in a while. perfect barreling waves, super sunny, warm, and just enjoying the most perfect Hawaiian day. BUT, i made a split second mistake: after i rode this amazing wave, i was so happy that i jumped off my board. i knew i should have stayed down a little longer because my board was close, but instead, i came right up. then BAM!
i felt my board smash the side of my head but something protected it from going into my brain. that something was my ear. i felt it and something felt wrong. my finger was going between my ear which it usually doesn’t. it was then i knew i had to go to the hospital. it was then i knew i can’t surf for a while. and it was then i knew it would hurt.
then the blood started gushing out. i was still on the outside and very far from the beach. one thing was telling me to paddle in. another thing was telling me to surf a little bit more.
i knew that the doctor won’t let me surf for a while so i had to get my last good wave before heading to the hospital. i caught it and was satisfied so i went in.
people paddling past me were freaking out. maybe because of sharks? i don’t know. anyway, i went in, drove to the hospital emergency room, and asked the doctor to stitch me up. after it was done, he told me not to go into the ocean for the next 10 days? but he said “you can go back to work tomorrow.” really? haha. i said thank you and left!
