i knew i could surf if i didn’t get my ear wet. and since i’ve done it before, i thought i’d give it a try today. it doesn’t matter how big the waves are, all it matters is “timing.”
i even caught some waves and took photos of Koike-san. i have to admit that sometimes i forgot about my ear. in fact, i forgot about it as soon as i jumped on my board. haha.
Koike-san surfs really good. just so happy riding so many waves. this was 2 hours into our session and my hair still dry.
seen Koike-san riding some perfect waves! i was so stoked to ride along the side. the best view in the world.
selfie cutback.
happy rides equals happy smiles.
the conditions were absolutely perfect. i was only gone from Hawaii for 8 days and i missed it like it’s been 8 years.
i told myself in the parking lot that i wouldn’t ride any waves. i broke that rule when i seen perfect waves coming right to me. i couldn’t resist. ended up surfing for 3 hours and not a drop of water on my ear.
thank you Koike-san for the wonderful morning. see you tomorrow same time!
after our surf, we powered back up with some delicious pho.
the beautiful sunset from Mayuki.
yesterday was the only day i stayed out of the ocean. luckily i had something to keep me occupied. i was riding out of my valley raising my hands and yelling “FREEDOM!”
