i got up yesterday morning and ate my normal fruit and granola yogurt bowl. that was at 6am.
then after our surf, we went to eat the biggest slab of prime rib. that was 10am.
then went to wash down the meat smell with some sweet shave ice. that was 11am. do you know how full we were???? Koike-san went back to his hotel to sleep. i went back to work. something wasn’t fair? haha.
the beach is getting crowded again. the surfers are back, and so are the homeless. we must all share the beach so it’s all good.
i got hurt for a reason. or should i say reasons. first reason was: it was telling me to slow down. second: i got tricked into a meeting i didn’t want any part to do with, but i couldn’t attend because i was driving to the hospital instead. and third: i learned how to surf more carefully and surf without getting my hair wet. i still can’t believe i did it.
and while i was taking a part time break from the ocean, i decided to enjoy other parts of my life. parts i totally forgot about.
thank you Koike-san for giving me these waterproof bandages from Japan. too bad they couldn’t wrap around my big ear. haha. but i will surely use these in the future.
thank you Masae-san for the treats from Ishinomaki. perfect meal again!
omg, i just love this!
when ever i park my truck with the boards in the back, i’m always watching it carefully. why? because if you turn the other way, this will happen.
they will steal everything that is not chained.
and not only here, it happens everywhere in Hawaii.
