Surf Your Fried Rice Dream!

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another blog that didn’t get posted for some reason. here it is:

Jun 28, 2017 @ 15:45

wow, another beautiful day in paradise! surfed this morning with Oda-san. super cool surfer from Osaka on this set of the day.

i kind of did a boot camp on him. yelling from front, back, and side. haha.

then i saw his surfing coming together. perfect rides with the perfect ending.

i tried to get barreled this morning. but forgot i still can’t get my ear wet so i pulled out. bummer.

i could see the new South swell coming in. it’s going to be another amazing week of surfing!

nice to meet you Oda-san! keep on traveling, and keep on surfing!

then went to Bogarts for the pork adobo fried rice special of the day.

then went back this afternoon with Kato-san. waves getting even bigger and better. we had a great time! now it’s been 15 hours since i didn’t get my ear wet. tomorrow i’m going to just do it! i can’t wait to do my first duck dive of the week!!!

did you see the video of this ferry sinking? it’s pretty crazy because i rode worst ones then this in the Philippines and Indonesia. freaking scary world. please teach your kids how to smim so they can survive something like this.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide