it’s crazy that this is the first time in my life i surfed for 5 days without a leash and didn’t fall once. and i timed the waves perfectly so i didn’t even get my head wet. i kind of trained myself mentally and it worked out pretty good.
i was even trying to get barreled at times. the waves were just too perfect to resist.
i have a feeling that once my doctor gives me the clearance to get my ear wet, i’ll probably fall on every wave. haha.
had an amazing afternoon session with Kato-san yesterday. a very cool surfer that caught so many waves i couldn’t even count. good job girl!
my Ulua friends came to say hi again. they swim circles around me and tease me. and they are also getting much bigger than before.
and instead of 6 last time, there are 7 now! this is such a treat to see.
and this little turtle hanging around all day too. i just love nature!
people ask me where the best poke bowl on the island is? my answer is “Da Hawaiian Poke Co.” try it and you will know why.
hot summer days continue. drink lots of water and surf lots of waves!
