gosh, yesterday was a great day to surf or dive. or do both! so that’s what i did.
surfed in the morning and went back to the ocean in the afternoon. it was picture perfect! thanks Nao-san for the beautiful photo.
it’s unbelievable how Nao-san became so confident so fast. she paddles out by herself and rides every wave by herself. she finally got to the level she was dreaming about.
i thought it would take longer, but she proved me wrong. another person that is Asayama-san inspired.
i tell everybody that free diving is the best training for surfing. once you can relax in the underwater world, the real world is a piece of cake.
Nao-san went to depths she’s never been before. now her goal is to spear a fish. haha. sound familiar?
another way to gain confidence is to swim under the waves. so we went to Rock Piles and snorkeled under the thundering surf. i love this place as it taught me how to be comfortable duck diving, and also taught me the dynamics of the oceans power.
i could tell Nao-san was freaking out in the beginning because this can be pretty scary for a first timer. it’s kind of dark under there.
when she came up, she was so excited of what she just saw! haha.
i went to look for those big Ulua’s but didn’t see any around. ended up spearing some sashimi anyway.
Jordy Smith won the contest in his backyard. he’s lucky Joshua didn’t create the biggest upset in South Africa surfing. it was that close!
thank you Kamikawai-san for the unagipie! not supposed to eat it at night right?
and thank you Okuda-san for the amazing bottle of sake. this i can drink at night right? haha. cheers!
