Japanese surfers are so respectful. they won’t go if somebody else is paddling for the wave. even though i yell “GO!” they won’t go. Adachi-san is from Wedge Surf in Ibaragi so i told him “hey, if Onosei-san says “GO,” you’re going to go right? he said “yes.” so i said “so if i say GO you better GO!”
then he started going!!! and riding so many good waves.
i was really impressed with Adachi-san’s surfing. super relaxed and great rail to rail surfing.
it’s his first time surfing in Hawaii so he was really happy. long rides and big smiles!
clean and warm water too!
we surfed for 2 hours and i don’t think he even had a time for a break. i was yelling “go, go, and go” and he kept on going, going, and going.
and doing some nice cutbacks too.
great job Adachi-san! keep on the rail, and keep on the smile! Please tell Onosei-san and all the boys at Wedge i said “aloha!”
here is my advice for anyone trying a new surfboard for the first time. first have an open mind. understand the new board won’t work exactly like your old one. so when you take off on your first wave, stay low, keep calm, and become one with the board. i like to go slow on my first wave and feel it out without falling. because if you fall on your first wave on a new board, you are mentally done.
then once you can become one with your new board, go bigger and stronger. just have confidence in yourself and your new board.
and once you’re confidence, ride her like she’s your new girlfriend. haha. just joking. gosh, i can’t wait to go back to Taiwan again!!!
