good evening. just checked the forecast, nothing much happening here in japan. maybe a small east swell. i’ve been here for almost a month and only surfed 2 typhoons. usually i surf like 5 or 6. oh well, i guess i can’t complain after the great surf we had last week. just going to chill out and dive down here in okinawa….
check out these photos that were taken recently in south africa. crazy…. great white shark attack… poor little seal. the screwed up thing is that the sharks sometimes play with the seal before eating it. that’s not too nice…
after playing for a while, they go in for the kill. i don’t like thinking about sharks too much but can’t help it where great whites live. went to africa, was scared. went to west australia, was scared. and now in okinawa and scared. all the great white shark attacks in japan happen down this side. i just decided i’m not going diving today….
i was at rise and shine in shonan the other week when taku, roma, and ruma stopped by. these kids surfing roots are from the moniz family over in hawaii. now their winning contest in japan a year later. unreal progress. congratulations kids….
and every time i stop by the dove factory, i walk around for hours checking out tokura-san’s collection of old boards and vintage stuff. maybe he’ll let me try one someday.. not….
**and last, want to thank everybody that was concerned about my cut on my hand. i got great advise from doctors and friends via email. it’s a lot better now but once i grab my rail on my surfboard to stand up, it’s going to open up again for sure. so will i surf? heck yeah…
