went surfing this afternoon with Koike-san and we had the whole lineup to ourselves! perfect fun waves and nobody around is like a dream session.
i was so happy to see Koike-san put the board on the rail like this. this is real surfing!
i just love these kind of photos.
and i just love looking for the barrel.
Koike-san caught some really good ones today. surfing level on the rise.
then it got super crowded and aggressive. but we had our little private session so it was ok.
thank you Koike-san for the wonderful afternoon!
my friend Carter sent me this photo of us back in 1987? gosh, we were so young as we waited for our heats in the NSSA Nationals at Huntington Beach, California!
i’ve been tracking typhoons like this for 25 years and it’s very rare to have one turning down like this. it will eventually turn back up and when it does, expect huge surf in Japan. and epic too!
