Freaking Dangerous Surfing World!!!

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finally got some South swells today! so stoked to surf, but so freaking dangerous!!! you have guys that are out there that freaking panic when they take off. i almost got killed today because this guy ran right over my head. and the crazy thing his he probably didn’t even know what he did. so yeah, i got pissed off and yelled a little. i still have anger control issues and when somebody almost kills me, i explode. i should just be calm and go run him over tomorrow right? anger or revenge? both not good. haha.

had fun surfing with Hikaru-san this morning. even though it was dangerous, she did very well.

Hikaru-san asked me if she’s good enough to surf alone. i told her maybe a few more lessons and she’ll be ready. but after that idiot ran me over today, maybe not.

great job girl! keep on surfing and you can do it!

it’s been a long time since i did the “close your eyes time” with Mateus. he already knew he was getting a present.

he closed his eyes but tried to peak. this kid is getting smarter. haha.

gosh, i just love this kid. the cutest ever.

then he got his presents from Michi-san. look at his face. haha. thank you Michi-san!

then after he opened everything, he gave me the look “hey uncle, don’t bother me now because i’m going to play with my new toys.” haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide