omg, surfed 2 rounds for 5 hours today. super sunny and blue day!
started off in the morning with Father and Son combo. here is Manaki-kun who is only 11 years old and very brave. it’s the first time he caught waves on his own. this kid was so stoked!
riding wave after wave and paddling out smile after smile. haha.
Manaki-kun surfs in Chiba with his Father so he’s feeling the warmth of Hawaii.
Matsuda-san’s been surfing for 20 years so he knows a lot about surfing. had a great conversation with him and was super stoked watching him riding the longboard really good.
Manaki-kun super focused and he told me he wants to become a surfer. well, he already is.
Matsuda-san walking the nose on a really nice left at Bowls. good surfer going with the flow.
this kid is the strongest 11 year old i’ve ever met. he had so much energy and not even once got tired. wow!
we went to refuel our bodies with carbos and protein. i’m pretty sure the boys went to take a nice nap after lunch.
i went straight back to the beach and took Christian surfing. another energetic teenager at 14 years old. this kids first surfing experience and it went pretty well.
sunburnt eyes from the hot sun and blue sky. that girl stole my good pair of Maui Jim’s so now i realize how much my eyes needs a good lens. hopefully will have time to go shopping next week for one. but for now, lights out. good night.
