it’s pretty crazy how much better the waves in the afternoon have been. yes, the morning is already good, but the afternoon is way better. cleaner waves and way less people.
it was Hattori-san’s first surf in Hawaii. he couldn’t believe how far out he had to paddle. haha. it’s 10x farther than your typical Japanese surf break. but once he got out, his surfing was on!
Hattori-san has been surfing for only 1 year. it’s amazing how good he is for that short time! but after these days of boot camp, he will get even better and better. i could see so much progression yesterday.
great surfing Hattori-san. keep smiling and enjoy the ride…
my friend Carter sent me this photo. it was back in 1987 in California when we were both sponsored by “Mango Clothing.” we use to get huge boxes after boxes of clothes sent to us in Hawaii. and when ever we went to California, we would go to the factory and load up boxes and boxes of clothes and bring it back home. it was so crazy how much they gave us and the cool thing was “Mango” was the coolest thing back in the 80’s.
i would love to try this someday. spear a big bluefin tuna with a harpoon? i would do it a little different though. i would jump over holding the harpoon and spear the tuna. then wrestle it back to the surface and lift it back on the boat. now that sounds really fun!
a very long time ago, i went on a surf trip to Bali with Team Hawaii and Team Okinawa. i remember taking this photo at Keramas as young Kazuma-kun took off. fast forward to today? this kid just became the 2nd ever JPSA Professional surfer from Okinawa. omg! i’m so happy for this kid because just like his father Kazubo-san, he’s going to be a legend! congratulations kid! and congratulations to the whole Okinawa! your new professional surf hero is here!