drove past Bowls this morning and couldn’t believe how many guys were out! the first real swell of the Summer and everybody wanted a piece of it.
seen Michael Ho surf this wave super good! i would have gave him a 8.5 but he would probably deserve more being over 60 years old!
Abe-san was very lucky this morning because there was no wind. so we went straight to a secret spot i surfed for the first time.
waves were super perfect and Abe-san was enjoying the ride.
the perfect set, and the perfect smile. Abe-san said if felt so peaceful out there because nobody was out. so i’ll name that new point “Peace Point.”
great surfing Abe-san!
went to Da Hawaiian Poke Company for a poke bowl.
Abe-san was tripping out on my Hawaiian plate! i always eat this when i go there.
i ended up eating the whole plate. then right after went to pick up Hashimoto-san for an afternoon surf. i was so full!
and omg, the waves got 3x bigger than the morning! i must have duck dove under 40 waves and Hashimoto-san even more. haha. Boot Camp Day 1 starts!
swell continues tomorrow. so stoked!
