had one of the longest days in my life! started off this morning with the wonderful Matsubayashi-san family! Marina-chan was pretty nervous yesterday in the beginning until she caught her first wave. this is it! look at that beautiful smile! Marina-chan ended up catching the best and most waves of the day. perfect surfing and not falling even once. a perfect example of a first timers first surf. look forward, bend your knees, and keep calm. so easy! Kaoru-kun rode some good waves today. super cool kid that has a very bright future ahead of him. perfect surfing, perfect smile. another example of how to surf correctly. good job kids! now it’s Papa’s turn! Matsubayashi-san only caught one wave the last time we surfed 3 years ago. today, he caught 4 really good ones. huge improvement! he even caught a pretty big and long one. i could tell how stoked he was just by his facial expression. haha. good job Papa! i’m so proud of you! good focus, and good balance. had to get the Diamond Head back shot. i love it. so happy to surf with you and your kids! i hope to make it to Gobo in Wakayama someday. would love to try some fresh fish and surf a spot i’ve never surfed before. thank you guys again for a wonderful day!then went back out for Boot Camp day 2 with Hashimoto-san. the waves were freaking perfect!!! super clean off shore barrels with 10′ faces.
then jumped on Mayuki with the boys until pitch dark. black barrels, nice moon, and a wonderful surf session. good night.