The Day my Life Changed…

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 the water was dirty, it was windy, and definitely no day to dive.  but i really wanted to eat an Uhu so i tried.  the water was so dirty that you couldn’t see anything until you hit the bottom at 40′.  i just dove down, waited on the bottom for 2 minutes, and a nice size red Uhu swam past me.   bam!   loaded up the truck today and on standby for some adventure.   this is the reason why i don’t like Mayweather.  how could you claim to be the best boxer in the world and run and hide like this????  something i don’t respect at all.   Sasaki-san asked me the other day,  “when did your way of thinking change?”   i told him it happened after 3/11.  after that day, my thinking was never the same.  i appreciate a lot more things in life, i don’t let small things bother me as much, and i cherish my family and friends 10x more.  i learned that life can be cut short in a split second, so we must enjoy every moment of every day.   Abe-san was just one of the many people that inspired me.  i met him right after the tsunami demolished his house, boats, and whole town.  this man lost everything, but he didn’t lose his soul.   and 6 years later, we meet again.  i can honestly say we are all happier men than we were before.  so many great things happened since 3/11 and that’s all i cherish.

We Are One!

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide