imagine coming from Hokkaido and surfing with a wetsuit all year around? Nakayama-san was so stoked to be in warm topless paradise! i could imagine it feeling pretty dam good. haha.
Nakayama-san doing some Boot Camp today. and after a few adjustments, he was putting the surfboard on the rail and surfing perfectly. he made it look so easy!
wave after wave and perfect ride after ride.
if i can see this kind of satisfied smile in every surfer, i am satisfied too.
luckily it was so empty that Nakayama-san could ride any wave that came. left or right.
this was our last wave after 3 hours of surfing. got super hungry so decided to eat some super local food.
took him to my favorite local restaurant and ate the Sarisari. it’s the best!
originating in the Philippines, you can’t get a better bowl of shrimp and pork Sarisari like this. and it’s under $10 for all this.
had to let our stomachs rest so went to watch the perfect long rides at Diamond Head.
but preferred to surf with less people and closer paddle. and omg, we scored perfect waves again this afternoon.
great job Nakayama-san! you surfed super good today. please remember the steps to smooth cool surfing, and remember to go with the flow of the wave. i’m sure you’re life will be a lot better in the ocean from now on…
