Tough Mama!

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today was an amazing day with Mama and Papa Iwata-san!  we surf every year and i really missed both of them!   so i was really looking forward to today.

Mama on the first wave.  i can’t believe how sharp this woman is!  super athletic, energetic, and always smiling.

so stoked Mama!

then Papa on his first wave of the day.  he must have been practicing because the stood up on his first wave and rode it perfectly!  the best wave he caught every since i started teaching him.

super happy Papa!

we ended up surfing for 2.5 hours.  a long time considering we usually surf for less than 1 hour.  it was actually hard to go in because the waves were so perfect and so were the rides.

the coolest Mama and Papa on earth!  i feel like they’re my own parents!

Mama fell off on one of her waves and the board hit her in the face.  she paddled out and i asked if she was ok.  she said “i gave birth to 3 kids, of course i’m ok!”  haha.  i thought that was amazing.

Papa keeping up with energetic Mama.  we had such a great time!

once a year we surf together for the past few years.  as we are all getting a little older each year, we are all getting more energetic and much more happy.  that tells you a lot how surfing can improve your body, mind, and soul.

after our surf, we had a full day of exploring Hawaii!  the second half of the story coming tomorrow.   i better get to sleep because i’m pretty sleepy.   have  wonderful evening!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide