had another amazing day! started off with the 4 from Shikoku! Hitomi-san up first and loving the ride!
the last time Hitomi-san surfed was with me a very long time ago. but this girl never forgot a thing.
then it was Takako-san surfing for her very first time. super good balance.
and super good smile!
towards the end, Takako-san told me she wanted to ride a big one. so we went to the outside and she got her wish!
Matsuda-san up and riding!
a lot of people don’t understand how much energy surfing takes out of you. but it’s the best and healthiest workout in the world.
thumbs up and happy smiles.
Hitomi-san on her last ride.
Goto-san longboarding and cross stepping. after a few waves with the longboard, Goto-san went over to Bowls with my shortboard and scored.
i paddled over and watched him catch wave after wave after wave. it was the biggest it’s been in a while. score!
the first time i surfed with Goto-san was 5 years ago. since then, he’s been improving rapidly. it must be all those North Shore sessions at Big Haleiwa!
and must be Bob-san from Tokushima pushing him to his limits too. i was so happy to see amazing rides like this.
and happy to see Goto-san smiling and enjoying the ride.
thank you guys for a wonderful morning! good surfing, good smiling, and good memories!
i must have eating pho about a hundred times this year. so today, i ordered the BBQ short ribs. it was amazing!
kimchee for takeout. this place is the best! thank you guys again!
dropped off Team Shikoku and picked up a friend and went back out to the sea. it was a very long day of beautiful rides! goodnight.
