so happy that Rikita-san is back. always have a great time with him as we surf, talk story, surf, and talk story all day long. coming off the airplane and rinsing off in the clean ocean must feel really good.
and to be riding wave after wave for hours must feel really good too.
and doing a round house cutback must feel good too. this is a cool photo.
while Rikita-san was ripping it up, i was riding a few waves on my own. trying to get to the nose. almost there!
feels pretty good riding on the ocean on the nose of a surfboard.
now this probably doesn’t feel good. Rikita-san kicked the reef and there happened to be Mr. Uni living there. haha.
we can laugh at this because it’s pretty funny. the reason is this isn’t the first time. haha.
but after Rikita-san had the uni stuck in his foot, he kept on surfing anyway. and surfing better than before. it’s amazing how the pain goes away once a wave comes.
went to my truck and pulled out a plastic bag and vinegar.
soak it for 30 minutes and you’re ready to go home. thank you Rikita-san for the laughs yesterday afternoon. it’s going to be a super fun week!
pizza for dinner. yeah!
