Rikita-san and i were sitting on the beach at Bowls ready to paddle out. then i asked him if he wanted to surf somewhere else today. so we threw the boards back in the truck and drove with our wetsuits on to another spot.
it was probably the best call i’ve made in a long time because the waves were much better and there was only one other guy out. super local spot with absolutely no tourists.
i love taking photos like this. the local entry.
and i love catching waves like this. so happy.
Rikita-san couldn’t believe we had this dream wave pretty much to ourselves. i told him people don’t surf here because if you don’t know anyone, your car will get broken into while you’re surfing. and if you make a mistake and drop in on someone, you will get beaten up. i’ve seen it way to often in the 36 years i’ve been surfing out there.
Rikita-san caught some really good rights. i was so stoked to see him surfing so good and enjoying the ride!
i haven’t seen this many empty waves in a while.
backside ripping. Rikita-san was practicing his backside and it’s getting so much better.
another spot, another view. all so beautiful.
then we went to pick up Toshimi-san from the airport. had oxtail soup and fried chicken for lunch, then went back surfing. i left home before 7am and got back at 7pm. another long amazing day! part 2 of today coming tomorrow. goodnight.
