Surfers Culture

175

another fun day of surfing. paddled out with Matsuzaki-san this morning. waves were small but good enough for us. only a couple guys out so absolute peace! a super good surfer from Kawasaki.

when you have the right board, surfing is way to easy! i was happy to see some long cool stylish rides.

Matsuzaki-san’s been surfing for 40 years so he knows a lot about surf culture in Japan. we had lots to talk about!

water was super clean too. seen some cool fish swimming under me.

it’s crazy how this stick fish was trying to bite my feet! it wouldn’t leave me alone!!!

more cool rides with this cool surfer.

thank you Matsuzaki-san for the wonderful session!

and the happy pho for lunch!

want to congratulate Gen and the boys for their mixed bag of prized fish. good job boys!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide