Jose Angel: The Rumors

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there are thousands of rumors going around in Hawaii. some true, some not. who do you believe? who don’t you believe?

as i was sitting in the lineup at Bowls waiting for a wave with the Uncles, we were talking about all kinds of stuff in the past. then Uncle Lance turns to me and says “hey Kirby, i’ve heard a rumor about something and i want to clarify it with you.” i was thinking “omg, what did i do???” then he said “somebody told me that your Step-Father is Jose Angel? is that true?” i looked at him with a big confident smile and told him, “yes, that’s true.” Jose Angel was indeed my Step-Father. and it’s something i’ve been proud of all these years.

then the waves would come and the Uncles would surf. then when the waves stopped, they would tell me stories about Jose. they would tell me how he use to dive 200′ for black coral, how he use to save many lives out on the North Shore, how he use to spear big fish, how he use to do backflips while taking off at 25′ Waimea Bay, and how he was a really respected waterman back in the 1970’s. i was listening carefully and i was probably glowing. glowing because all those stories are 100% true. and i know because i was there either on his boat when he was diving 200′, or on the beach when he was surfing and saving lives. more and more stories flashed into my mind and everything felt like it was just yesterday. i had the chills.

Jose Angel was a true waterman. he was also a Principal at Haleiwa Elementary School where i attended. he never taught me things by explaining things, he taught me everything by example. i was only 6 years old back then, but i’ll never forget my first ride on the nose of his longboard at Haleiwa, i’ll never forget him getting lost at sea and swimming at night to Molokai, i’ll never forget barbecuing the huge lobsters under the tree at Haleiwa Beach, i’ll never forget helping him find 50lbs. rocks so he can hold to take him down 200′ faster, and i’ll never forget him saving many lives in the big waves.

Jose was lost at sea at the age of 42 years old diving off his boat. his body was never found. i know he’s in a good place and i know his last breath must have been so beautiful. maybe this is why i feel that watermen always return to the sea. it’s not about the body, it’s about the soul. if i could choose my final destiny, it wouldn’t differ. i’m sure Jose wasn’t afraid of dying in the sea, and maybe that’s why i’m not either. i tell my loved ones all the time “if i’m ever lost in the sea, please don’t come looking for me. i’ll be fine…”

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide