Surf and Fire

321

took the girls surfing this morning. it feels like Summer will never end for us. Mia walking the board.

Hang 10? really? wow!

it’s the third time i took Tiare surfing and i was happy to see her improvements. such a sweet young girl!

paddled in and saw the fire on the boat that was stuck on the reef. fire? what happened? somebody is in big trouble!

heard that guys had to jump off. i’m wondering how it started because when a boat gets stuck on the reef like this, the first thing is to turn off all the electrical. so with the electrical off, how would a fire start? i’m guessing one of the salvage guys was probably smoking a cigarette when he was removing the diesel from the boat. haha. but yeah, somebody is in big trouble!

glad to be home and eating the simple and healthy things in life.

went to grab a beer last night with a buddy. i drank 3 beers and 3 glasses of water. you should have seen how big my stomach was! haha.

a 2 minute drive from my house to this coolest craft beer bar. i love it here.

and i also love seeing rainbows when we’re surfing. Taishi-san and Nakahodo-san enjoying the perfect evening session.

spent most of the day at the beach like usual. super sunburnt but super happy.

bummer about the Mink Whales that beached themselves in Kauai. feel sorry for the 5 that died. must be so sad to watch this…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide