while i was surfing this morning, i saw the school of Omilu again. gosh, i really want to go free dive! i’m on total standby now but the wind isn’t cooperating.
it was Adachi-san’s first time surfing. so i told her “the waves are small so just look forward.” glad she didn’t look behind because the waves were kind of big today. and if she seen this wave coming, she wouldn’t have been smiling for sure. haha.
so happy to see her riding such beautiful waves! and smiling all the way!
and smiing all the way back out to the lineup. “only a surfer knows the feeling.”
got a few more perfect rides.
the double rainbow stayed with us almost the whole time we were surfing. it was so beautiful.
then i went to the outside to check on Hara-san. omg, waves were so good! check out Hara-san’s one of many perfect waves.
he was ripping!
front view of Hara-san’s front side attack!
i had to get a few too. almost got a really good barrel on my longboard. had to put on the brakes.
then we went to eat a delicious oxtail soup. thank you Hara-san and Adachi-san for the wonderful day!
beautiful wave, and beautiful surfing. everybody enjoying our endless summer…
