i picked up Kawamata-san yesterday afternoon and told her “waves are big today, get ready for some action!” haha. it was by far the biggest surf she’s been in.
i told her to throw the board and dive under on the big sets. and every wave was a big set. haha. and when we finally got out, she said “this isn’t surf for beginners right?” haha. i said “you’re a strong girl so you can do it.”
then Kawamata-san paddled into her first wave and was hooked after. super exciting jet coaster rides in the ocean.
even falling off on waves and laughing. this girl has a lot of confidence in herself. that’s cool.
paddling back out and diving under big sets all afternoon. at first she was scared, but after a few, she was laughing.
this was her best wave! big, steep, and exciting!
this girl is spontaneous. Kawamata-san was just here a couple of weeks ago and when she left, she said “see you soon.” i had no idea it would be this soon. haha. that’s the way to live your life girl! keep on smiling and keep on being spontaneous! we all only have one life to live!
