it was an amazing day! i surfed 4 rounds and saw the weather and ocean change right in front of my eyes. in fact, i spent 8 hours at the beach, starting off with this amazing golden sunrise.
Nanami-san is willing to surf anytime and anywhere. today was early morning and the waves were so beautiful!
today a lot more relaxed and it was showing in her surfing. long perfect rides!
good girl Nanami-san! thank you for listening today! haha.
it was so beautiful in the morning, then things started changing as the storm was approaching.
i’m trying to see how high i can jump. and when i get higher than this, i will try to do a front flip.
mid-morning, the storm came as Oshima-san paddled out. so stoked to see him back in Hawaii taking off on big waves! when i say “GO,” Oshima-san goes!
and making the drop easily. amazing!
i love this photo because it shows the different kind of wave when the wind turns onshore. more power and more push. Oshima-san focused!
mid-mid-morning was Yamamoto-san’s turn. first time ever surfing and i couldn’t believe he jumped right up on his first wave. that shows a lot of confidence in this man.
i’m so happy he got to feel the stoke of surfing.
then after that was too easy. perfect surfing!
then picked up Hasegawa-san and Osamu-san and surfed in the storm. onshore, windy, stormy, hundreds of waves, lots of jellyfish, and some good rides…
day went from gold to gray. i love each and every shade…
