good noon, it’s 12 pm lunch time and i’m getting hungry as we sit here in the car doing internet work. we left tokyo yesterday at 12 pm, stopped in wakayama to change cars and have an awesome dinner, caught a ferry at 2:40 am, then got to shikoku at 8 am. 20 hours later, we pull up to the beach and guess what? perfect waves! it’s my 1st surf session in japan this year and i was pretty excited. i paddled out thinking to myself “i just want a few small waves to get the surf feeling back, i’m going to just catch 2 or 3 and go in.” then there it was, my 3rd wave coming off the horizon, well overhead as it started to double up and get thick. i paddled deep so i could take off behind the barrel, i looked to see if anybody was going, one of the locals nodded his head (meaning “GO”), and i went. took off, slipped, recovered, bottom turned right into the barrel, held on, and as the whole wave covered me, i stayed on my board and came out somehow. i went in, and here i am waiting for the waves to come up for an evening session. the waves are supposed to be big tomorrow, then bigger the next day. i haven’t been so excited about surfing like this in a while. my job for the past 20 years is to chase typhoons and that’s what i’m doing. it’s never predictable and it’s never boring. you just don’t know what your going to wake up to. i know i’m in the best spot in the whole entire world right now for waves and i cant’ wait till tomorrow comes.
we pulled up to this and watched it get bigger and bigger. everybody asks me where the best waves in the world is, i tell them indonesia. i’ve been lying, japan is the best. haha. and if you want to know where i am, forget it. my lips are sealed.
