Presentland and Freedom!

261

thank you Nanami-san for all the goodies! granola for my yogurt bowl!

thank you Matsu for all the goodies! spicy furekake over my rice!

thank you Akudo-san for all the goodies! Standard California for my body!

thank you Les for all the deer meat!

the perfect Hawaiian dinner!

i came home after a long day in the ocean and turned on the tv. it so happened to be the ending to Braveheart! my all time most favorite movie! all of a sudden, i was feeling so good!

loyalty and honor are the most important values i respect in a person. and in the last scene, Mel Gibson couldn’t have portrayed it any better.

instead of saying “mercy,’ he yelled “FREEE……”

“dom…..”

“FREEDOM!!!!!!!” i yell this every time i ride the Harley on the freeway with the wind blowing in my face, and also yell it every time i’m riding Mayuki with the wind blowing in my face. i even yell it when i hiked to the top of the active volcano in Guatemala. and if you seen me, i do it way better than Mel Gibson. and it feels so dam good! haha.

FREEEEEDOOOOOMMMMMM!!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide