i was looking at some old magazines and came across this photo of Glen Matsumoto at some secret river mouth in Japan. i remember it so clearly because i was out with him on that very big, challenging, and dangerous day. to tell you the truth, i don’t even know how we made it past the shore break. this day is for sure a huge day in the surfing history of Japan because that spot never got that big since then. and that was back in 1992. score!
last night i came home and cleaned one of the fish i speared. then made some tataki and ate it for dinner. it was amazing!
then Mateus came over and showed me his scratches. ouch!
i said “you will be ok baby.” then tickled his stomach and made him laugh.
then we were practicing Japanese. i taught him how to count up to 5! then we played more and more. this kid is so smart that we carry full on conversations now days. so funny listening to his stories. haha…
