trying to get rid of things but before i do, i must scan them into digital files. it’s not hard to do, it just takes so much time. time i don’t have. so i’ll maybe do a page a day for the next 400 days? if anybody knows a better way to do it, please let me know.
i flipped through some pages and didn’t realize how many beautiful barrels i’ve gotten throughout the years. maybe that’s why i’m so content as a surfer.
yes, this is the happiest place in the world for a surfer. i hope you can all experience this kind of happiness someday. then you will understand my life a lot better.
combination pho with raw steak. this is my favorite.
check out the Presidents convoy. amazing!
had some beers and food with my friend Carter yesterday afternoon. it was probably the best UFC fights ever.
there were 3 championship fights and all 3 champions lost. i kind of like when the underdog wins.
everybody these days is beatable. but it seems like the calmest fighters always win in the end. always…
i like to watch fighting because i learn a lot from it. i learn that you have to be pretty dam crazy to do this. it’s definitely not for everyone.
then came home at 7:30pm and ate my fresh homemade spicy rainbow runner bowl. the best poke bowl on the island.
