had an amazing day. started off with Honda-san. super good surfer that just wants to get better and better. made some minor adjustments on the beach such as weight distribution, arms, and vision. then on his first wave, it was so perfect!
i asked Honda-san if he knew how to do a cutback. he said not really. but now that he’s surfing off his back foot more, cutbacks are way too easy.
this is perfection! push for power off the back foot, and lightly steer off the front foot.
he must have caught 30 waves and did over 40 cutbacks this morning. it was so cool to watch such cool stylish surfing like this. reborn!
great job Honda-san. i’m so happy to see you surfing so good! remember what to do with your head, arms, and feet and you will be surfing better and better from now. tell Ando-san i said hello too and i’ll never forget our secret surf session last winter. hope to surf with you boys someday soon!
hot pho and a nap sounded perfect. i’m pretty sure that’s what Honda-san did, but for me, i went back surfing!
i call Kimura-san last night and find out he’s in Bali??? i told him a few weeks ago not to go!!! the freaking volcano is about to blow and you won’t be able to come home! he said “i kept it a secret from you because would scold me.” and he sends me this photo from the airplane of that same volcano? haha.
now i’m jealous. i wish i could go right now! safe travels my friends!
